The Entralpi app allows you to create guided workouts with any combination of strength, exercise time and grips. This customization allows to get the right intensity of exercises and play with tempo for gradual overloading.
Exercises are accessible on the main exercise page with their names. You can create and edit the ones you've created.
- Hit the + sign on the exercise section
- Pick a descriptive name
- Choose a exercise type
- Absolute : the strength pulled in the grip is in KG
- Relative to max strength: strength pulled based on a percentage of maximum strength
- Relative to bodyweight: strength pulled based on a percentage of bodyweight
- Set your exercise parameters
- Save your exercise
Choosing what to train
For optimal progression, trainings should be linked to your objectives, strengths and weakness. After analysis of your what is setting you back in your climbing, you can make a measurement of that effort and create an automatic training for it. If you are new to training, we suggest to start with low intensity exercises and focus on the quality of your exercices for the first training cycles.
Getting the right intensity
Aiming at a specific strength on holds helps with proprioception and to get the right body stimulus for training. By knowing the feeling of the intensity you can recover from and your pump (move fast) intensity, you can better understand your climbing.
Getting the right intensity for your trainings is key to get the adaptation from your trainings. You can aim for multiple intensity based on what you are looking for:
- mobility & structure loading
- blood flow
- active stretch
- active recovery & pump management
Combinations of hang and rest time links to the kind of climbing that you are training for and can be crucial t strength based exercises require long rests between the exercises and workouts. A combo of exercise to rest that keeps you on the edge is key to building pump-resistance. Aerobic endurance workouts require a combo of rest time to exercise time that allows you to recover. Progression in endurance is obtained by reducing the resting time.
Training single handed and with specific finger groups allows to fix imbalances, prevent injuries and train for specific grips. When a finger gets injured, the other fingers of that hand will compensate and pull harder. By training each finger individually, you can keep an awareness of the strength of each finger and fix these imbalances.
Pulling on a single fingers can be traumatizing at start. Using pockets is a part of climbing and a popping finger can cause similar load on the hand while climbing. Practicing that in a controlled environment is key to get gradually adapted to it.
Hangboards and holds
Different grips will load your fingers differently. You can pick holds to vary the workouts and aim for ergonomic. You can pick your hangboard from the workout creator. Varying the grips you use on the hangboard prepares you for the diversity of grips in climbing.
The exercises can be modified to adapt as you progress.