Avoiding Ground Falls on Trad
Climbing in Quebec this season, I found myself drawn in by the sheer number of trad routes. Our province is full of exceptional cliffs, and knowing your way around a rack opens up a much wider range of climbing — and gets you onto new walls faster.
But trad also comes with the horror stories: protection ripping, climbers decking. How do you start trad without getting hurt?
Aid your projects
Experienced friends told me to start by aiding routes on my very first trips out. Testing every piece as you go builds a lot of experience quickly. The catch is that not everyone can afford to spend a precious climbing day playing cliff technician.
My alternative is to get on easy-to-protect projects where falling is inevitable. It’s fun and it’s a good school. In a sense the approach is like running a top rope up the wall: you can place as much gear as you want and make sure the fall is safe.
Place a lot of pro
Why not place three pieces instead of one? More protection is always better than not enough. The motto “when in doubt, run it out” is stupid even if it rhymes.
On trad onsight you can’t predict when a flake will blow under the pressure of a cam, or when a nut will shift after you’ve moved past it. With plenty of good placements, you secure your climbing all the way to the next good placement.
Get decent gear
Unlike shoes, harnesses and ropes, trad gear lasts a long time and holds its value. The last thing you want is to finish a long run-out with nothing left on the rack to protect what comes next. Getting a double rack, and climbing with friends who have the same, keeps you out of those situations.
Trad is a great thing to do and I’d encourage any climber in Quebec to make the most of it. We have several south-facing cliffs that stay warm into late autumn — Weir, with its excellent new guidebook, Mont Pinacle and Mont King.
One bonus tip: having a physical margin helps you keep your head. It lets you downclimb and stay calm enough to place plenty of pro. Write to us with questions about training tools for home.
