Workout Editing
The Entralpi app lets you create guided workouts from any combination of load, exercise time and grip. That customisation is what lets you hit a specific intensity and play with tempo for gradual overload.
The basics
Exercises are listed by name on the main exercise page. You can create new ones and edit any you’ve made yourself.
- Hit the + sign in the exercise section.
- Pick a descriptive name.
- Choose an exercise type:
- Absolute — the load pulled on the grip, in kg.
- Relative to max strength — a percentage of your maximum.
- Relative to bodyweight — a percentage of your bodyweight.
- Set your exercise parameters.
- Save the exercise.
The relative types are worth the extra setup. They keep a workout correct as you get stronger, and they let the same workout work for climbers of different sizes.
Choosing what to train
Training should follow from your objectives, strengths and weaknesses. Work out what is actually holding your climbing back, measure that specific quality, then build a workout around it.
If you’re new to training, start with low-intensity exercises and focus on the quality of your positions for the first few cycles. There is no rush to load heavily.
Getting the right intensity
Aiming at a specific load on the holds helps with proprioception and gets you the stimulus you actually intended. Once you know what the intensity you can recover from feels like — and what your pump threshold feels like — you understand your own climbing better.
Intensity is what selects the adaptation, so pick it deliberately:
- mobility and structure loading
- blood flow
- active stretch
- active recovery and pump management
- strength
Exercise tempo
The combination of hang and rest time ties a workout to the kind of climbing you’re training for, and it matters as much as the load does.
Strength work needs long rests, both between repetitions and between sessions. Building pump resistance means a work-to-rest ratio that keeps you on the edge. Aerobic endurance needs a ratio that lets you recover inside the set — and you progress there by cutting rest time rather than by adding load.
Fingers used
Training one hand at a time, or with specific finger groups, lets you correct imbalances, prevent injuries, and prepare for particular grips. When one finger is injured the others compensate and pull harder, and that habit outlives the injury. Loading each finger individually keeps you aware of where you actually stand.
Pulling on a single finger can be traumatic at first. Pockets are part of climbing, and a finger popping off a hold mid-move produces a similar load with none of the control. Practising it deliberately is how you adapt to it safely.
Hangboards and holds
Different grips load the fingers differently. You can pick your hangboard in the workout creator and vary the holds across workouts, both to spread the load and to prepare for the range of grips climbing will hand you.
Exercises can be edited at any time, so the workout can move as you do.
