What each test measures

The Test tab shows three skills, one for each test. This page says what each number is and how the app counts it.

The three skills

”Your profile”

The tile Your profile draws the three skills on one shape.

• Each skill is compared with your own best, not with other climbers. 100% means your latest result is the best you ever had. 86% means your latest result is 86% of your best.
• Once one of your skills has results on two different days, a dashed shape shows your results nearest to three months ago.

So the shape does not say you are strong or weak. It says where you are today against your own best.

Under each tile

• The change, for example “+14% since July”: your latest result against your first result of the last three months. The month is the month of that first result.
• The age, for example “Tested 6 days ago”.
• Test again, when the result is more than 28 days old.

Max strength

Peak force is the highest force of a pull. The max strength of a hand is the best peak of its pulls.

The comparison with your grade. The app divides your force by your body weight, and compares the result with what is usual for climbers of your grade. The weight is the one the plate measured when you first set up the plate. After a test, if the app has none, it uses the weight measured just before that test. You see the comparison in two places, with slightly different words:

• On the tile of the Test tab: Strong for your grade, Typical for your grade or Building toward your grade. It uses your stronger hand.
• Right after a test: Strong for your grade, About right for your grade or Room to grow for your grade. “About right” means close to the grade your force would predict.

The two can disagree a little. Both are a rough guide: grades depend on much more than finger strength.

The speed of a pull (RFD). RFD means rate of force development: how fast your force goes up when you start to pull. The app measures it over the first 200 milliseconds of the pull. It reads in your unit per second, for example kg/s. A climber who reaches their force quickly has a high RFD.

It needs a quiet moment before the pull to measure it. If you were already pulling or moving, it cannot count RFD, and shows nothing for it.

Rise time is the time your force takes to go from almost nothing to almost its peak.

Stability is how much your force moved while you held it near its peak. A small number is a steady pull.

Endurance

The endurance test is a 4-minute all-out test with one hand. The app reads these numbers from it:

• Peak force: the highest force of the whole test.
• Critical force: the average of the peaks of your last pulls. It is the number the app has always shown. It reads higher than the force you can hold for long.
• Sustainable force: the force you can keep up for minutes of on-and-off hangs. The app reads it at the end of your last pulls. It is never above your critical force. You see it in Activity History, on the page of the test, and workouts use it for their targets.
• % of max, on the tile: critical force divided by peak force. It says how much of your strength you keep when tired.
• W′ capacity (say “W prime”): all the work you did above your critical force during the test, in your unit times seconds, for example kg·s. Think of it as a reserve that you spend each time you pull harder than your critical force.
• Fatigue index: how far your force fell, from your best pull to your weakest pull, as a percent of the best.
• Decay rate: the trend of your force from one pull to the next over the first pulls of the test. A negative number is force lost per pull.
• RFD: the fastest start among your pulls, counted as above.

Finger strength

Each finger has one number for each hand: the highest force of its pull.

• The number on the tile is the average of the fingers you tested. For each finger, it takes the better of your two hands.
• Right after the test, the app also shows a total for each hand: the sum of its four fingers.
• The comparison between left and right is made finger by finger: the app says if the two hands are balanced or far apart.
• The best pull of each finger also sets the target of workouts on that finger.

What the numbers do not say

• They are measured on one hold. Change the hold and the numbers change. Compare only results made on the same hold: the tiles of the Test tab do not separate holds.
• They depend on the day. A tired day gives low numbers.
• They are not a diagnosis. If a finger hurts, see a physiotherapist or a doctor.