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What Predicts Your Climbing Grade?

Testing • • Félix Bourassa-Moreau • Updated

Maximal finger strength is the biggest physical predictor of climbing ability: in 307 climbers it accounted for about two thirds of the variance the tests explained, 68% in men and 64% in women. Endurance adds to it, and speed of force separates the elite.

Technique, tactics, head game, experience: climbing ability has many parts. But when researchers measure physical qualities across large groups of climbers, a few stand out very clearly.

Is finger strength the best predictor of climbing grade?

The largest recent study tested 307 climbers (185 men, 122 women). Maximal finger strength was the dominant factor: it accounted for about two thirds of the variance in climbing ability that the tests explained, 68% in men and 64% in women. A finger hang test correlated even more closely with grade, but the authors found it mostly measures the same finger strength.

An older study of 205 climbers reached a similar conclusion from a different angle. A model built on simple hand-arm tests (grip strength, bent-arm hang and finger hang), together with body fat, climbing volume and experience, explained 97% of the variance in climbing grade. Body fat and experience mattered mostly through their effect on strength and endurance, not directly.

A 2023 study found finger flexor strength correlated strongly with grade (r = 0.68), while finger extensor strength did not correlate at all (r = 0.04).

Does endurance matter too?

Intermittent finger endurance, measured with short hangs and short rests, accounted for most of the rest of the explained variance in the 307-climber study (28% in men, 34% in women). In a separate study of 52 climbers, an intermittent test combined with maximal strength explained 46% of lead climbing ability in men and 32% in women. Endurance matters most for routes, where you have to keep gripping for minutes.

Does speed of force matter?

Among good climbers, how quickly you produce force distinguishes the best. In isometric pull tests on a 23 mm rung, elite climbers had about 40% higher peak force but 75% higher rate of force development than advanced climbers. An earlier study of 57 climbers found no difference between intermediate and advanced climbers, only between elite climbers and the rest, but the larger 2022 study also found advanced climbers ahead of intermediate ones. More in our rate of force development article.

Men and women: normalize by body mass

When finger strength and endurance are expressed relative to body mass, the 2025 study found no significant differences between male and female climbers. Percentage of bodyweight is the fair scale for comparing yourself with others.

What does this mean for your training?

  1. Finger strength is the biggest lever for most climbers who already climb regularly. Structured work like max hangs targets it directly.
  2. Endurance is next for route climbers. See finger endurance training.
  3. Explosive force matters at the top end. It responds to short, fast, maximal-intent pulls.
  4. Correlation is not a training plan. These studies show what strong climbers have, not how they got it. Training studies suggest hangboard work builds strength; see does hangboarding work.

Measure what predicts

If finger strength is the biggest single factor in climbing ability, it is worth knowing yours and watching it change. Our testing guide explains how to measure maximum force, critical force and rate of force development with a standard 20 mm edge.

More on testing: how to test finger strength, max hangs and finger endurance training.

Do this in Entralpi

The app’s tests measure your force (Take a test), and What each test measures explains each number, including how the app compares your force with climbers of your grade. Without the plate, the timer runs a session but measures no force.

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