Build your own workout
How to build your own workout in the app: its sets of hangs and rests, the load in kg, % of body weight or % of max, and how to edit, copy or delete it.
Checked with app version 1.0.64 Last updated
On this page
On the Train tab, tap + to open Create Workout, build your sets of hangs and rests, then tap Save. The quickest start is often a copy: open a ready-made workout close to what you want, tap Edit, then Create copy, and change the copy.
Create a workout
- On the Train tab, tap the + button at the bottom right.
- Change the title and the description the app gives it. A picture is optional.
- Set Type: Exercise or Hangboard. With Hangboard, tap the board’s picture to choose another board; on each hang, you then tap the holds (two at most) and the fingers on the drawing.
- Set Intensity, how the load is written (below).
- Build the sets (below).
- Tap Save at the top.
A new workout is private, and not empty: it starts with one set of repeated hangs and rests. Visibility is for making it public: see Share a workout.
Choose how the load is written
A new workout starts on % max. Each tap on Intensity goes to the next way:
- kg: a fixed load, in kilograms whatever your unit (see Units and language).
- % bw: a share of your body weight.
- % max: a share of your max strength.
One workout uses one way. When you change it, the app converts the loads you already typed.
% max reads the Max strength field in Settings, the value for one hand. For an exercise with both hands, 100% is twice that value: with a max strength of 40 kg, a hang with both hands at 50% asks 40 kg. A hang on one finger or a few fingers is kept to a safe share of that finger’s own max: if you type more, the session lowers it. Fill in that field before you build in % max: see The max strength test.
Build the sets
A workout is a list of sets. A set is a list of steps: hangs and rests. For each hang:
- Tap the name of the exercise and choose the hold and the hand. You can search the list. A hang with no exercise reads Select Exercise.
- Set the time: type seconds (“45”) or minutes and seconds (“1:30”), or use − and +.
- Set the load with − and +, or type it: for 50%, type 50.
Then:
- Add exercise adds another hang to the set, like the last one, with a short rest before it.
- The number at the top of a set is how many times the set is done. Use it for repeaters: one hang and one rest, done six times. The classic repeater is 7 seconds of hang and 3 seconds of rest. Above 1, the app adds a short rest at the end of the set.
- Add Set adds a copy of the last set, with a rest between the two if there was none. Change its time on the rest’s card.
- The bin removes a hang, a rest or a whole set. The last step of a set cannot be removed: remove the set.
- A workout holds at most 5000 hangs and rests, each repeat of a set counted. At the limit, the buttons that add turn off, and a line says why.
Every set needs a hang, and the workout a title. Once saved, it is on the Train tab under Custom workouts: tap it, then Start. Without a connection, the app keeps it on the phone and sends it to your account later.
If every load is in % max, the workout’s page shows three numbers side by side. Intensity: a word from Easy to Max, and the share its hardest hang asks, of your max, of a finger’s max or of your sustainable force: the line says which. Volume: how long you hang in all, and how many hangs. Pump: how much of your forearms’ endurance reserve the workout spends, rests included, from Low to All out. Pump reads your endurance test and your max; without them, or when the test could not give a sustainable force, it reads a typical climber’s and says Estimated. The info button beside them opens Intensity, volume and pump. Each hang’s line says what it asks, for example “60% of your pinky · 6.2 kg”.
Your own exercise
At the bottom of the list of exercises, tap Create a custom exercise. Give it a name no other exercise has, and if you like its hand (Left, Right or Both), a picture and a description. Share with Community, off at the start, makes it available to all Entralpi users.
To change it later, tap the pencil next to it in the list. Careful: Delete Exercise also deletes every workout of yours that uses it. The app warns you before.
Change, copy or delete a workout
Open the workout and tap Edit.
- One of your workouts. When you save, choose Save Changes, which replaces it, or Save as Copy, which makes a new one and keeps the first.
- A workout that is not yours, for example one of the app’s, cannot be changed. The button at the top reads Create copy: it saves a copy that is yours, and the original stays as it is.
- Delete. On the page of one of your workouts, tap the bin and confirm. This cannot be undone.
Each card under Custom workouts also has three dots, with Edit and Delete.
Your workouts are kept in your account, and go into it if you create one after using the app without. Logging out removes them from the phone until you log in again: see A session did not save for what is not sent yet.
Related
- Share a workout with a friend or the climbers you coach, or make it public.
- Train without the plate: your workouts also run on the timer.
Go deeper in Train
- No-Hangs: Feet-on-the-Floor Finger Training No-hangs explained: what they are, why the feet stay on the floor, how to set the load, what they can train, and who they suit.
- Hangboard Training Plans How to plan finger training: when to start, how often to hangboard, how to warm up, what to do on rest days and how to know it works, from the research.
- Abrahangs: Do Daily Low-Load Hangs Work? Daily low-intensity hangs (Abrahangs) at about 40% of max: in a 2024 app-data study the gain was not significant against climbing alone. How to do them.
- How Long Should You Hang on a Hangboard? Hang about 7 to 10 seconds for max strength, 7 seconds on and 3 off for repeaters, and rest 3 minutes between heavy hangs. Durations from the studies.
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